I managed to get back to Belgrade just in time for the big Christmas celebrations to see the festivities firsthand.

Serbia has a whole bunch of traditions around these days, many of which have survived from pre-Christian pagan rituals. Today, a lot of these rituals only remain in villages and small towns, while in larger cities they gradually fade away or transform. But I'll try to quickly walk you through the main highlights.

The main visible action happens on the evening of January 6th (the actual holiday is the 7th). But the preparations start about a month before.