I've never had to make so many transfers to get to the start of a hiking trail: 50km on a minibus through serpentine roads, 50km by ferry across the incredibly beautiful Lake Koman, and then another 50km on a minibus through serpentine roads.

I left my car in Shkodër so I could do a circular route: Shkodër - Valbona - Ses - Shkodër, instead of being tied to some specific point on this route. Otherwise, I'd have to add another day (or even a day and a half) for the return journey (because I'd have to do the hike twice).

PS. Now I have like a million photos of the lake, and I'm not sure what to do with them (: