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Telegram is a messenger where I post short travel notes. This page is a self-hosted backup of that channel.

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Picture this: you're living in a poor fishing village in central Vietnam. And suddenly, a huge pile of money lands in your lap. You've never seen that much in your life. Would it really change your life that much? Build a house maybe? Buy a car? Send your kids to school somewhere? In the village of An Bang, almost all the residents found themselves in exactly this situation. And... they started investing in the tombs of their ancestors and building massive crypts. The local cemetery turned into a very strange architectural mess. People are practically competing to see who honors their dead the best. Some of these structures cost six figures in dollars. Officially, most Vietnamese are considered atheists. But in reality, most practice ancestor worship. People say that during the census, folks didn't know how to properly name their religion, so they got listed as atheists. Plus, the communist authorities officially promote atheism. However, you can see the full spectrum of world religions on the crypts: Buddhist swastikas, Christian crosses, even Muslim crescents. Not because they're burying Christians with Muslims, but just because people stuck these symbols on just in case. In 1975, a lot of Vietnamese were evacuated from the country urgently. People from An Bang were especially lucky, and practically everyone who stayed had a close relative who became an emigrant in the States or Europe. In the nineties, the local government allowed money transfers from abroad. And help from relatives poured in like a river. The village quickly became practically the wealthiest in the entire country. But that's where the budgets started going. Otherwise, the settlement doesn't really differ from the others. Even the road is beaten up in places ¯\_(ツ)_/¯