At the start of my trip, I stayed in quite an unremarkable neighborhood of the capital, away from the center. I was drawn in by the hotel's historical charm, but what really stuck with me was its rooftop and the chance to watch the nightlife unfold. Long before I ever traveled to Arab Africa, I'd read "Children of Our Alley" by Naguib Mahfouz, and based on his descriptions, I'd imagined a typical town and its life exactly as I witnessed it that evening. Even though the author is Egyptian, Tunisia feels like a kindred spirit when it comes to daily life and customs. The street bustle, the clatter of kitchen utensils and the aroma of dinners wafting from neighboring kitchens created such a pleasant homey atmosphere—it was fascinating to watch it all unfold.