Getting to Gornji Lukomir wasn't easy. The last 20km took a whole hour to crawl through in the car. But the views are worth every bit of suffering.

Lukomir is considered one of the oldest villages in Bosnia. Just 10 years ago, there were only about a dozen permanent residents here, and back in the 1970s there were nearly three hundred. Today people only live here during summer. That way they can earn money from tourists and avoid being completely cut off from the rest of the world in winter.

I read how locals lament that the village is gradually losing its unique character and turning into just another ethnic theme park. The roofs used to be Lukomir's trademark, but modern materials are much cheaper, even if they don't look as charming. Money wins again, and the expensive traditional options are slowly being replaced by what people can actually afford.

Still, there's plenty to see here: tons of hiking trails, amazing viewpoints, and even 15th-century stonework (I actually talked about them recently).