Lebanon has 4 different parallel exchange rates with huge differences between them.

If the official rate today is 15,000LL per $ (they even raised it in February from 1,500 where it had been for the last 25 years), then the actual rate is 107,000.

Then there's the llollar rate (8,000LL/$), which is what banks use to give people cash in lira.

And sayrafa (90,000LL/$) for non-cash transactions.

When paying by card in LL, the conversion should be at sayrafa rates. But a lot of local places can just bill you in dollars straight on the terminal. Though at one café they somehow charged me $600 for tea and coffee at the old rate. I paid in cash with lira instead.

At any street money changer, they swap at the actual rate. It's not exactly legal as far as I understand, but nobody's getting punished for it yet, and you don't need to find shady people or do anything cloak-and-dagger.

I exchanged two hundred bucks and got two thick stacks of the biggest bills—100,000 lira notes. Never held that much cash in my hands at once. And think about it—4 years ago that same stack would've been worth almost $15,000.